BUILDING THE BEAST, Part 4 -By Bill Moore In this installment, we run the critical brake and fuel lines - while providing you with a few very special lessons along the way. Before we can mount the frame on wheels so it'll be easy to roll around the garage, we've got to run both the fuel and brake lines and - in quick succession - we're going to temporarily mount the brake master cylinder. Because the frame is still bare at this point, it's the perfect time to do this work. What you're about to do is the zen of automotive mechanics because running the steel brake and fuel lines is not an exact science. As a consequence, there is a certain amount of artistic effort involved. At points you'll find yourself pondering various approaches - and each will be appropriate as long as you finesse the operation and patiently avoid various pitfalls along the way. Take your time, constantly gauging how much line you will need to get from Point A to Point B. In the end, your goal will be wind up with as professional a looking job as possible. By that we mean the lines look tidy, avoiding kinks and crimps. Using a tube bender is critical here so the bends in the lines aren't too tight or crimped. If you crimp it, dump it, because it's now useless. And, in the process of routing the lines, allow space for brackets that haven't been installed on the frame yet - say engine mounts, steering and exhaust location. We strongly suggest using the longest possible lines available and using padded clamps at each union to prevent as much vibration as possible. In this particular application, the 3/8-inch steel fuel line was attached with nine clamps (they come five to a package, NAPA Part No. 770-1153) and the brake lines were mounted with 23 3/16-inch clamps (NAPA Part No. 770-1150). You'll have to drill holes into the frame, and then use self-tapping screws to mount those clamps securely. Obviously, the size of the holes will be determined by the size of the self-tapping screws you decide to use. And as far as placement of the clamp, the line is generally clamped at one and a half foot intervals. While it will take about three 60-inch lengths of 3/16-inch diameter fuel and 3/8-inch brake lines, we suggest you purchase five lengths of line so you'll be able to make a mistake or two and not have to rush back to your automotive store. As you go through the routing, you'll be using a tube cutter to cut the lines at various points. Remember, though, that the fuel lines are always double flared so they not only fit together securely, but they meet D.O.T. requirements. Let's face it, you never want to lose either brake pressure or fuel pressure. As a consequence, we're providing several photographs to give you a quick look at the flaring process. Cameron McCrary, our resident ASE-certified master automotive technician, liked the rugged 2x4-inch steel Street Beasts frame just fine, but he felt that a minor change should be made so the fuel and brake lines could be mounted easily inside the frame rails. His approach was to drill a pilot hole in one of the main X-braces on the left side of the car with a 1/8-inch carbide drill, and then in progressive steps, he opened it up and rounded it off with a rotary file. As part of running the fuel and brake lines, we must temporarily mount the brake master cylinder and the proportioning valve. These items are put into position so you can determine routing of the brake lines at the front of the frame. And, while the master cylinder will be remounted again later, let's pay attention to the process right here. Then, we'll only briefly mention it again later. One other item that will come into play with the brake line is the proportioning valve. It can be mounted an inch and a half forward of the center running board support. The master cylinder and booster requires that you connect a vacuum line to the engine, and in order to do that properly you'll have to check a service manual for the correct information covering your year of unit. Since this is a temporary installation, we won't be drilling holes through the fiberglass firewall - which is part of the body structure. Once the body is in place, though, you'll mark it using the support on the frame upright as a pattern. At this point we're merely mounting the master brake cylinder and booster to the frame, using four 3/8-inch locknuts, inserted into the master cylinder studs, from inside the cockpit area. Don't forget the four 3/8-inch flat washers. Again, the brake line must be double flared where the front and rear lines attach to the master cylinder. And, as part of this process, we're also mounting the brake pedal that is supplied in the Street Beasts package. However, you will need to supply a standard Ford brake light switch, found in a whole range of Ford, including the Mustang. Please follow the photos and captions as we walk you through this installation process. Next time around, we're going to go through the process of installing the front disc brakes from a Mustang II, and the rear drum brakes from a late-model Mustang.       This is an excellent photo of the brake master cylinder, the booster, the lines leading down from them to the proportioning valve.         Here's a good look at the fuel and brake lines clamped inside the left frame rail.         At the back of the frame, we see the mounted rear suspension and the placement of the brake lines along the axle. Also, not the flexible hose, running from the yellow bracket to the axle.         In preparation for running the brake and fuel lines, Cameron decided to run them through a hole in the side brace. Here, he enlarges a hole. Note that he is wearing eye protection.         And here - primered white so it stands out from the black frame - is the end result. Now, the lines can run safely inside the frame rail.         Here, you can see how 60-inch lengths of fuel (at the top) and brake lines run through this hole in the frame, providing a straight shot between the front and rear.         This structure, painted in a Rustoleum primer paint as it is delivered from the factory, is part of the frame. It supports the firewall, the steering mechanism and the brake master cylinder.         In this photo, you can see the booster and master cylinder, mounted to the painted frame.         Cameron test-fitted the pedal. For the sake of economy, we won't mount it a second time in this type of step-by-step sequence. So, listen up! Here, he positions the brake pedal & inserts the bolt.         Next, he tightens it down. The lock nut must not be tightened down so severely that it prevents the brake pedal from moving!         Here, we see the master cylinder push rod. Please note that the brake pedal has been removed for this sequence of photos.         Onto the push rod you have to place the brake light switch. It has to be mounted horizontally to act in concert with the movement of the brake pedal.         Here the brake light switch has been mounted.         And, don't forget the washer!         And, to make sure the brake on-off circuit stays in place, there's a small clip that goes with it.         Here, the clip is put in place, with the brake pedal mounted.         This is the overall view.         Anytime you deal w/ brake or fuel lines, you'll have to use a tube bender to avoid crimping the line. Tube benders come in several forms. Here, Cameron uses one type to start the line from the brake         Here's another view.         This is what he came up with by patiently jockeying the line back and forth.         In this shot, you see an inexpensive tube bender being used.         As Cameron moved downward towards the brake proportioning valve, the points at which he would bend the fuel line became critical, and he carefully marked where the bends would take place.         Cameron has coiled the brake line down to a brake proportioning valve.         This is a good look at the finished installation.         Inevitably you're either going to run out of brake or fuel line and then have to attach another piece to it. In that case, you'll have to know how to double flare the ends!         The first step is to slide the fitting onto the brake line.         Next, the line is placed into the flaring tool.         And the tool is tightened around it.         Now, the mandrel tool (the black circular piece) is inserted into the steel line itself.         And this clamp is tightened up against the tool.         And pressure is applied to flare the steel line.         A-B-C In this sequence you see the fuel line being double flared.         This is the finished product, with the brass fitting held in place by the double flared end of the steel line.         In this photo, you can clearly see how the line has been flared.         Here, you can see how two pieces of fuel line have been mated. One note here is that you should wiggle and jiggle the lines as you connect them to assure they mate correctly.         At both ends of the frame, the brake line has a connection which will feed right into either the drum brakes at the rear or the brake calipers at the front.         Another view with the brake line in place.         This, once again, is a view of the bracket and the flexible brake line.         Here, you can see how the steel brake line then circles over the pumpkin and out along the axle to the cylinder.         Here, the brake line goes through the rear brake backing plate. In an upcoming issue, we'll tend to relining the brakes, both rear and front.         But, now, back to the fuel line! At the bottom left you can see the fuel line running along the frame.         By using some silicone, he has formed a gasket in the steel to help prevent chafing.         That piece leads through the steel, and then runs along the frame to the fuel tank. Please note that this location would also be an idea point to mount a fuel pump.         A piece of rubber fuel line is then attached.         To make the final connection.