BUILDING THE BEAST, Part 6 - By Bill Moore Now that the brakes have been installed and the car is up on its wheels so it can be rolled around your garage, it's a good time to finally install the fuel tank and finish up the routing for fuel lines at the rear. Oh, and one other thing: We'll install the fuel gauge sending unit as well. In preparation for installing the fuel tank, Cameron laid the floor pan, the seat divider and the trunk liner atop the frame several times just to get a feeling for how it would impact on the positioning of the fuel tank and other components. When it comes to installing the fuel tank, we give you various measurements so you'll have the flexibility to move the tank either forward or backward to compensate for minor variations in body. We do this to help eliminate some of the work you'd have to go through of lifting the body on and off the chassis. Still, keep the phone numbers for your rugged buddies close by because you'll need their help with the body because it weighs over 300 pounds. With the following measurements, you can mount the fuel tank before the body is mounted. This is one operation where our Research & Development Dept. has paid dividends for you. Because of ideas that Cameron had about the placement of the fuel tank flange, and how high it positions the tank in the protective circle of solid steel known as the frame, a production change has been made to optimize installation. But, let's get on with the fuel tank installation. Follow along with the photos and simply read the attached captions that will take you through the whole process. And, once the fuel tank is in place, we'll show you how the fuel gauge send unit is installed into the tank itself. While the fuel tank has now been mounted, there will be additional work involving the tank once the '34 Coupe body is mounted. A hole must be cut into the fiberglass body where the trunk lid makes contact, and the rubber fuel filler hose will be fitted. But, we'll get to that later. Before stepping away from the fuel tank, we have to install the fuel gauge sender unit. Place the fuel tank sender gasket around the hole already drilled for it on the fuel tank, and measure from the bottom of the tank to the top of the sender gasket. This measurement will be approximately 10 7/16-inches. Add 3/16-inches to this measurement (about 10 10/16 inches), and divide by two in order to position the center of the resistor housing on the support arm. This gives you a measurement of approximately 5 5/16 inches. After the resistor housing has been moved to its new position, tie-wrap the wire to the support arm. WARNING: Do nut cut the wire from the resistor housing to the fuel tank mounting flange. This is a resistor wire, and shortening the wire will cause the gauge to operate incorrectly. Now, cut off the support arm half an inch from the bottom of the resistor housing. Measure from the center of the support arm, nine inches along the float arm. At the mark, bend the float arm 90 degrees. Carefully slide the gasket over the float and sending unit until it is flat on the mounting flange. Align the holes in the gasket with the holes on the mounting flange. It's easy - just follow the photo captions!       Attached to the fuel tank is not only the whole packing list, but special fuel tank sending unit installation instructions.         Here, Cameron measures from the front of windshield frame to the centerline of the fuel neck on the fuel tank, temporarily installed in its cradle at the back of the frame.         This is what we're talking about!         From the back of the frame to the back of the fuel tank, the measurement is approximately 2 inches. This placement allows minor space for adjustment when the fiberglass trunk liner is finally mounted.         Ultimately, the tank will be mounted below the frame, but our initial process of installation has it above the frame. Center it on the brackets at the appropriate distance.         Using the frame and the aluminum tank flanges, clamp the tank into place.         The aluminum flanges on the tank are 10 inches long. We arbitrarily, but evenly, marked three holes. We did ours at two, five and eight inches. (That's centered, and two inches from each end.)         Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes through the aluminum flanges and through the steel frame.         We used an "L" bracket to ensure that the holes were drilled square.         The hole in the aluminum should be increased to 1/2 inch, while the hole in the steel should be 5/16 inch to allow enough play for the carriage bolts we've chosen to use.         Because we went with six carriage bolts, a file was used to square off the holes for the carriage bolt notches.         As a consequence of using the carriage bolts, we had to also enlarge the flange holes on the tank for final movement or adjustment.         Using a hydraulic jack, the tank was raised from below, and then held in place as the carriage bolts were installed from above the frame. The flange at this point is below the frame rails.         Here are 5/16-inch washers and the hex nut used to complete the mounting process. Do not tighten down the bolts at this point because final adjustment may be necessary when body is positioned on frame         However, the installation of the fuel tank won't be complete until the fuel level sending unit has been installed into the tank itself.         Using a drill bit, Cameron deburred the holes.         Next, using an appropriate tap, he prepared the tank for the screws that would affix the sending unit. However, self-tapping screws can be used.         However, before doing that, he used a flashlight to peer inside the tank to spot any metal that might have dropped inside.         And then, he used a small vacuum to clean everything out of the tank.         The first step in installing the fuel gauge sender unit is to measure the depth of the tank.         Add 3/16-inch to this measurement to arrive at 10 10/16 - and use half of this measurement to position the center of the resistor housing on the support arm.         Here, Cameron has placed the gasket on the support arm above the resistor housing.         And, he measures the support arm and marks it at 5 5/16 inches.         This is the support arm and Cameron positions the resister housing at the mark.         Here, measuring half an inch from the bottom of the resistor housing, Cameron marks the support arm.         And, using a hacksaw, he cuts the support arm.         Next, he measures approximately nine inches from the center of the float, and bends it 90 degrees at the mark.         Now, he tie-wraps the wires to the support arm. Cutting these resistor wires would cause the gauge to operate incorrectly.         Now, the float is inserted into the tank.         Along with the support arm.         Cameron tightens the sending unit onto the top of the fuel tank.         And, finaly, this is what it looks like. Now, don't forget to ground the tank. In our application, Cameron decided to use a carriage bolt to act as the grounding for the fuel tank.